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On the night of May 2nd every year, in every corner of the department and throughout Peru in general, the cross is watched over. One is to venerate the sacred wood on which Christ died, to redeem the world of its sins. In Cusco, the crosses of all the squares, of every home, and those that have been erected by popular wish on the hills that surround the capital of the Incas, are luxuriously adorned. They are surrounded by the latest shrouds, woven natural flowers, paper flowers, garlands and at their feet they burn tens and hundreds of candles, incessantly.
At the foot of countryside crosses, such as the Cross of the Rodadero of Teteccacca and others, they raise small alters and awnings from the early hours of the morning, in preparation for the evening watch. The same is done in homes.
Distant hill crosses, such as the one of Puquín, are brought to the city to be watched over by hundreds of devoted and fanatical farmers, and for the mass of the Day of the Cross.
So in festivity and music, this is the day that the Watching-over the Cross begins, starting at 6pm. At the foot of each sign of the redemption, in the city and in the countryside multitudes of devotees, butlers and cofrades gather.
Butlers are responsible for the organization and performance of the celebration, and cofrades contribute to their embellishment with diverse offerings that are lost in their masses: musical bands, wax candles, licenses, abundant drinks of every kind to which we accustomed, and an extraordinary profusion of foods. All contribute in line with their economic possibilities or according to the gifts or hurk'a or commitment that they have received.
At 6pm on May 2nd, after the first offerings the evening-watch begins with sacred music, songs and reverences, and the distribution of chicha and cañazo. Then the festivities begin. The incoming and outgoing butlers initiate the dance with a marinera, and a sweet and sad huayno that evokes gone loves. The enthusiasm grows as the hour advances and the liquor takes effect. When the cold becomes more intense, they frequently repeat the rounds of punch, chicha and brandy, pure brandy, and coca and cigarettes for men. Later, tea and abundant cañazo.
The morning May 3rd finds all in a state of pitiful and calamitous drunkenness. In these circumstances the hour arrives for mass, and all, devoted as if nothing had happened, nor had they reached the summit of excesses, fix themselves up in any way they can to kneel among the pews and whisper their prayers of remedy to their spiritual and corporal miseries.
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